Pura Vida, Costa Rican Culture, Mangroves & Dolphins…36

We learned a lot about Costa Rica in our short stay, about 45 days. We knew it would be different than Mexico, but we had gotten so use to Mexico that the changes seemed bigger or more monumental. So here are a couple unique things about Costa Rica that you might not know. img_4890

Costa Ricans sayPura Vidafor everything. The word actually means Good Life,  but today it can mean just about anything, at any time and any place. So the meaning isn’t always that clear! Here is an example I found hanging in a restaurant. ⇐⇐⇐

You might hear someone talking about going to a Soda. A soda sounds like a drink in a can to us gringos. But a soda is a family-run restaurant where the menu could be changed each day and/or written on the wall. It is a casual, comfy place that the locals go to get their favorite food and us foreigners to get a taste of their food.

What is the Costa Ricans favorite food? It is a traditional meal called Casados.  The word actually means “married men”. It clearly doesn’t mean that in this context. It is said that the term for this meal might have originated when customers asked to be treated as a “Casados” (a Married man), since married men ate such meals at home. This meal consists of; rice, black beans, salad, meat (chicken, beef, pork, fish etc.) and plantains. It is delicious!

Coming from Mexico where service and cost of product is very inexpensive, we had a bit of an awaking with the “cost” in Costa Rica. Everything is just a bit more expensive than Mexico. Also when you go to a restaurant they add in “10% for gratuity” automatically . It is the law that they have this on the bill. You can tip more but you don’t have to. After being in Mexico for so long, we forgot that it isn’t always that cheap everywhere!

img_4956Costa Ricans have a unique way of keeping animals and people in/out of their land. “Living tree fences” are made with real trees planted in a row with some type of wire between them. It is very effective and much nicer looking then what we think of as a fence. There are sometimes large ditches to catch the rainfall. They put these in the towns too. Just ask me because I fell as I was stepping over one. I was fine, just a bit shook up.

In Costa Rica you can see right away how important palm oil is. “Palm Tree plantations” are abundant in particular areas of the country. In the Quepos area they were just about everywhere. What we learned is that these plantations are huge in size and in the middle of the plantations is a small town with locals that live and work the palms. They consider towns to have 3 things, a Church, a School and a Bar. These small towns looked similar to any other small town, they just had majority of the workers and their families. The process for picking the fruit is done on a rotation of every few weeks to get the ripened fruit bunches, they are very fast growing. They are cut down with a long pole and/or men climb up the trunk. A different person picks them up and hauls them to the local processing plant not far away. They also have to groom the trees and remove dead leaves and any old fruit. Hard Work!

Costa Rica has huge Rainforest and its beauty needs no word

After our return from our holiday with our family and friends in Portland Oregon, we started preparing for our trip to Golfito, Costa Rica. Yet another step towards the Panama Canal. Golfito area is the closest marina to the border where you can check out of the country. We left Pez Vela Marina mid-January and had decided to take one stop along the way at Bahia Drake. We stayed a couple nights, it was a nice anchorage. img_5177-1On the second day we put our dinghy down and took a cruise around the bay. We were told that at high tide you can get your small boat up a river to see monkeys  . It took us a while to actually find the entrance as it was very hidden in the forest. We cruised up as far as we could and got lucky to see a couple monkeys along the suspension bridge.

The next day we headed to Golfito for our final check out of the country. We arrived to a small marina called Banana Bay Marina. It had a cute little cafe at the top of the dock and other boaters that are part of the “Panama Posse” were there, and we got to meet up with them. It was fun to meet people we had only chatted with on-line.

The Panama Posse is a group of boaters that are heading to Panama (all on their own schedule). By joining this group we get discounts at Marinas and learn from others that have done it before. We also have a chat line available to ask questions or get info.

img_5197We stayed stayed 5 nights at Banana bay Marina which allowed us to get all our paperwork done and get some provisions loaded before leaving the country. We did one adventure while we were in Golfito, we took a trip with a local guide through the mangroves to see all the birds, crocodiles and vegetation. He then took us to see a huge dolphin pod. We have seen so many dolphins I can’t even count…but this time we were down low in a small boat… a different point of view.

We were now ready to head to Panama, we had called Marina Vista Mar in Panama to let them know we were coming and would be taking a couple day to get there. It was approximately 300 nautical miles to our destination.

Watch for our next blog: Our Terrorizing Cruise to Panama”. It is a Nail Biter for sure!

 

Costa Rican Poisonous Creatures, Rainforest, Volcanos, Wicked Rivers…35

Our arrival in Costa Rica was a joy. We LOVE Mexico, but it was time for a change, a totally new place was exciting and we made progress down the coast towards the Panama Canal.

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In our last blog, Leaving Mexico, Costa Rica Here We Come! , you will remember that Loren and Stephanie helped us cruise to Costa Rica. They were with us 3 more days and we really enjoyed ourselves. We were located at Papagayo Marina which is a resort area and we were able to use the pool and enjoyed the drinks and food at the “Dive Bar” at the marina.

We decided to go have dinner at a nearby resort restaurant, “Andaz Costa Rica Resort”. This required us to walk a mile or so on a small paved path. It was a nice evening, the sun was just starting to set while we walked through the forest vegetation along the path.  We had flashlights in hand and it felt good to walk after a long transit. We end up at a cute & friendly spot for dinner, “Restaurante Chao Pescao”.  All of the restaurants are open air with some combination of barely covered roofs. We had an awesome dinner, all of the food was fabulous, way too much food to finish. As we were preparing to head out the waitress said she would “called us a shuttle to get back to the marina” She then warned us of walking in the forest in the dark. (yes, it is a forest, but with the paved path & flash lights, we didn’t think it was dangerous). She said that the snakes, scorpions, and spiders in the forest are mostly poisonous and are abundant at night and we should NOT walk the path at night…. GOOD THING to know! Right? So Glad nothing happened!

img_4451We also signed up for a volcano tour at “Rincón de la Vieja National Park“. It was a bit cloudy and rainy the day we went, but we had an excellent time. Got to see all the bubbling water holes, smell the steaming sulfur gases & enjoy the interesting nature all along the path.  Throughout our hike the tour guide was very detailed explaining what we were seeing, educating us on the animals, vegetation, & volcano activity, he was awesome. We also got to see a small group of monkeys high in the trees. It was a good day in the rainforest.

The next day we did a beach day at a nearby location. The marina office told us that we had the ability to visit this beach for free, normal cost was $50usd a head. We decided to take advantage and spend the day, have lunch and relax. We had food and drinks and got to sit on these unique “beach bed couch loungers“. (mouth full huh?) We had a great afternoon of relaxation, but the wind decided to pick up and we got hit with a bit of sand flying in our faces… so as we were picking up and getting ready to leave the white-nosed Coatimundi animals came out. They are smart like raccoons and know how to steal food from the humans. img_4554It was pretty funny watching them and how smart they were. We now realized the reason we were served food in a large bowl with a covered lid.

Our time with Loren and Stephanie was coming to an end and we were sad they were leaving. We had to say goodbye to our friends and crew helpers! Couldn’t have done it without you two! Thanks for all you did!

A few days later we left Papagayo Marina headed to Pez Vela Marina down the coast.  We had decided to do it in a couple jumps and anchor out. We get to see more of the countryside and don’t have to run all night! BONUS!

Our first stop was at Bahia Portero. It was a short run and very good choice. The bay was quiet and calm.  A small resort near a small town and a accumulation of small boats across the way by the resort. We stayed one night and slept well. Up early to head to our next location Bahia Ballena. We had to leave early as the run to Bahia Ballena was going to take about 12 hours. We wanted to anchor before it got dark. (Always a good thing) We had a pretty calm run for about ¾ of the time. As we transited down the coast we hit a bit of unpleasant waves but we kept pushing as we didn’t want to lose time and miss our anchoring window. We arrived with about 10 mins to spare as we dropped our anchor. It was a pretty deep bay and we anchored over by the fishing village. Cooked some dinner and crashed from a long day of travel.

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Pointing which way to go around

We got underway the next morning about 8am and had a 7 hour run to Marina de Pez Vela. As we left the bay we saw rows and rows of fishing nets. We had a hard time deciphering which way to go to get around them. The locals place floats with nets hanging down stretched out from float to float for a mile or more. We don’t want to hit them.. 1) we can get it caught in our props and cause issues. 2) this is their livelihood for food and income. Sometimes we were lucky to see a Panga (small fishing boat) to direct us around their nets, other times we just guess. I stood out on the bow and pointed out flags while Dan drove around, and we attempted to miss them. It was a good 2 hours + of time to get out of all of the net areas going slowly. Afterwards we had calm seas and made good progress.

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Map of our trip & stops from Papagayo to Quepos

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We arrived at Pez Vela Marina around 3pm to a very nice slip and dock hands to help us. When Dan went to checked in, he was told that they were doing a Christmas celebration in the marina that night and the boats would be lit up with lights. The marina is popular with the nearby town of Quepos. Many local folks come to the nice restaurants and join in the activities that are located at the marina. Dan and I found a sports bar that was on the 3rd floor with a great view of the marina and enjoyed the food and watched the boats turn on all their lights. By the time we got back to the boat we were both exhausted and crashed early that evening. We were woke up an hour later with fireworks all around the Marina going off over our heads. Not quite as regulated as the US.

We had new guests, Molly and Scott Bradley arriving in a day.  Molly is one of my good friend from my IT Job. I am grateful for our friendship and we were eager to see them. We planned on staying in this marina until after Christmas, as we were going to fly home to spend time with our friends and family. This allowed us to just enjoy the town.

We scheduled some cool adventure trips near Quepos with Molly and Scott. We enjoy the city, mountains, ocean & rivers with our friends and of course all the good food and drinks. We did a couple guided tours where we paid for a guide. Our first one was a white-water rafting trip with “PRO Rafting“.  This trip was amazing and I highly recommend it. We all had a blast and were thrilled, scared and laughing the whole time. The crew on the boats were top notch and we would do this again if we ever come back. Thank you, Marcelo, Felipe Rambo, Chris & Moises!

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Our second tour was a zipline in the tropical forest. We took a bus to the top of a mountain top where we crossed a suspension bridge. We have done multiple different zip lines in other countries. This one was fun, lots of lines and a good stopping system. The weather didn’t cooperate at all, we had low clouds and rain which prevented us from seeing the views. It was fun and I’m sure it would have been better if the clouds weren’t so low. We had a fabulous traditional Costa Rican lunch that was provided by the company.

We did some amazing snorkeling off our own dinghy out in the bay which was fun afternoon. Our dinner was at “El Avion” a historical, actual, real airplane. It is a C-123 cargo plane which the US CIA purchased in the 80’s and used with the Contras then abandoned in San Jose, Costa Rica. If you remember the scandal that involved Oliver North and the illegal selling of arms in Nicaragua, this is one of the planes! The owners purchased the plane for $3,000 and made good use by transforming into a bar/restaurant. The sunset from this location was amazing and we got to watch monkeys climb around in front of us. It was a fun evening. img_4843-1

A few days after Molly and Scott returned home, we also headed home to Portland, to spend time with our family and friends.

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We had another reason to celebrate! Our daughter Kylie got engaged. We are excited to have Ryan join our family.

We had a fun time at home during the holiday season with all our family home. We also had fun with an escape room WIN for the family with only 1 min 34 sec remaining! We pulled it off just in the nick of time!img_5020

We are truly bless!

Thank you again for following our adventures!

Stay tuned for a bit more about Costa Rica and Our Terrorizing Cruise to Panama…It’s a nail biter!!

 

Leaving Mexico, Costa Rica Here We Come! The Challenges of the Pacific Heading Southeast…#34

To say we were excited is an understatement….

It is finally time for our trip south, We planned to be in Costa Rica by late November.

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During the month of October Dan and I started our planning. We had to clearly understand our stops/marinas/anchorage and work to make reservations in the marinas we had identified. We also knew we needed some help for our long voyages. Dan and I figured we could go as far as Huatulco or Puerto Chiapas Mexico by ourselves. But the jump to Costa Rica was a big voyage and we needed someone to join us. Dan and I put out an email to our friends asking if anyone was interested. We got a hit from our Yacht Club friends Loren and Stephanie Hamberg. We were excited and started planning the timing & dates to pick them up in Huatulco. This helped us outline the stops and timing for our trip down the coast. We needed to be in Huatulco by 22nd of November.

On 29th of October we left Paradise Village Marina. On our way out we stopped at Marina Vallarta to fuel up and then planned our first destination, a close and fun one.

Destination #1 Banderas Bay, Playa Gemelas, 7nm, 3 hours, @ 8kts from Paradise Village Marina – This location is in front of our friends, Jane and Tony condo. We had taken Angelique to this location a month ago for a day trip, this time we were going to spend the night. It was an easy cruise across the bay. After dropping anchor we swam into shore to visit and spent the day on the beach We also were able to see the completion of their condo remodel. We had a great day, we will miss seeing them.  We stay 1 night in this bay.

Destination # 2 Bahia de Chemala, Perula cove, 93nm, 11 hours, @ 8kts from Banderas Bay – A full day of cruising then anchored in a cove where we had some of our sailing friends Andrea & Ben on SV Bella Vie and Vicky and Mike on SV Bonzer. The bay was only partly protected from the waves/wind and we ended up putting out our stern anchor. This helps keep the boat pointed into the waves and prevents the wind from pushing us sideways, which is very uncomfortable position for the boat. Had a wonderful dinner on shore the last night with all of our friends with great food, margaritas and company. We stayed 2 nights.

Destination #3 Barra de Navidad Marina, 40nm, 5 hours, @ 8kts from Bahia Perula – Just a short cruise to the cute Marina & town. We were in a resort with pools and restaurants. We always enjoy ourselves when the marina is part of a resort and we get to enjoy some of the resort amenities. Took a water taxi over to town multiple times, had some great meals and saw some of the Día de Muertos “Day of the Dead”where they honor their friends and relatives who have passed. We also ran into a Columbia River Yacht club member Tom Nesbit while we were there. Found the hidden pool in the resort which is impossible to find, Don’t tell anyone!  We stayed 5 nights.

Destination #4 Ixtapa Marina, 211 nm, 27 hours @ 8kts from Barra de Navidad – We had a full 1 day run to Ixtapa. Many times we see dolphins at our bow or in the wake behind us, today was no exception. We had to anchor out at Ixtapa Island for a few hours before heading in the marina because they had a working  dredge in the channel. We arrived around noon to this very quiet & calm marina. Not much happening near here, so we took a shuttle bus (14 pesos = .70) ride to Zihuatanejo. We had lunch and met up with our friends from SV Belle Vie again. They were having drinks and chatting with some folks that were staying in a condo up on the hill. We got invited to go swimming at the condo the next day. The view was amazing and we had a blast! We also did a scuba diving adventure at some of the Ixtapa Islands with Dive Zihua which was fun. Dan had to do a repair while we were here, the heat exchanger for the power steering hydraulics was leaking seawater… time for a fix! We stayed 7 nights.

img_3958-rotated.jpgDestination #5 Acapulco Marina, 112nm, 12 hours @ 9.5kts from Ixtapa – Acapulco isn’t the best city to stay in with all the gang violence.  You can read about shootings, gang violence and the struggle the law enforcement is having to keep control. We decided to not venture out much and use this as a resting spot and get provisions. Grocery store across the street was fabulous. Nice fresh veggies and full of all kinds of good food. Dan also had another repair needed to the generator raw water pump. We did do one taxi ride to the cliff divers and dinner at a hotel. What a great treat this was. Their were about 10 or 12 divers, they jump in off one side and swim across the gulch and climb up the rock face on the other side to their jump off spot. They have to time their jump perfectly with the incoming tide. The depth is only 12-19 feet and at the deepest point and they dive from 135 feet at the highest point.  We stayed 5 nights.

These Pictures show.. jump in, Swim across, climb up and dive in.

Destination #6 Huatulco, 240nm, 29 hours @ 8.2kts from Acapulco – We anchored out in the bay because the marina in this area was closed. This is a holding spot for us to welcome our friends, Loren & Stephanie and wait for the weather window to cross the Tehuantepec bay. If you haven’t heard about the Tehuantepec winds, it is well known for its offshore winds up to 40+ knots.  This is one of the riskiest locations to cross because the land is only 150 miles wide and the winds shoots across the land from the Caribbean sea to the Pacific Ocean. As you can see in the pictures of windy.com below. We stayed 2 nightsimg_4023

 

Destination #7 Puerto Chiapas (Puerto Madero) 224nm, 23.5Hours, @ 9.5knots, from Huatulco – The recommended route through the Tehuantepec bay is to keep 1 foot on the shore. Meaning travel close to the shore which prevents the winds from hitting you so hard. We had an awesome no wind couple days. With our friends aboard we pulled anchor and were off within an hour. It might not have been the best for our poor guests after their long flight from USA. They are troopers and did a great job with us on this trip. We had a great cruise across the bay with no issues. Our goal was to take some down time once in the marina to allow Loren and Stephanie to get some sleep, adjust to time and weather.  Chiapas was a cute little marina with a restaurant close by and a fuel dock which we stopped at on our way in. We were boarded twice by the Mexican Federales with a narcotics dog, first time at the fuel dock when we arrived and just prior to our exiting the country. They are serious about checking the boats. This is standard procedures for everyone…. don’t go assuming stuff here. We stayed 2 nights here.

Destination #8 Papagayo Costa Rica 480nm, 64hours, 7.5knt from Puerto Chiapas – Our plan is to skip the 4 Central American Countries (Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras & Nicaragua) We are purposefully skipping these 4 countries because of the unrest in these countries. Some boats go to one or more of these stops. We just decided that the entry and exit of each country is difficult along with unknown. We decided we wanted to spend our time in Costa Rica & Panama rather than these countries.

Yes, You must find and arrive at the “Capitania de Puerto” office when checking in and out of areas inside country, in addition Immigration and Customs office when arriving and departing from a country!

Our approach for this long voyage was to set up a watch schedule over a 24 hour period. With four crew members we each had 3 hours “on” and 9 hours “off” in a 12 hour period and repeat in the 24 hour time frame. Example: my shift is 3 to 6, so I have 3am to 6am and 3pm to 6pm. I sleep, eat and help out during the off hours. We try and have some food prepared and/or ready to eat. Crackers/cheese, veggies/hummus, hard boiled eggs, snack bars, peanuts, muffins, chips, sandwiches, pasta, guacamole. I try and make an easy dinner if the weather is good. We only had one bad night with very rough seas and we all skipped dinner and ate snacks. Our trip was mostly calm until we hit the Papagayo winds about 80 miles from our Marina. We were warned about this area and it didn’t disappoint us. It was a rough 5 hours until we got around the point of land and it calmed down. We arrived at approx 5am and slowed down until the first light at around 6:00 to be able to pull in to the marina safety. We stayed 7 nights.

BUT we MADE IT SAFELY to COSTA RICA BABY!!  and we were all extremely exhausted! 

WATCH for our next blog on our adventures in “Costa Rica”… #35